Adult acne: why it appears after 25 and how it is treated

Yuna Shkhagosheva
Yuna Shkhagosheva — dermatologist, cosmetologist, trichologist
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In brief

  • In adult women acne is often hormonally driven: lesions along the jawline and chin that flare before menstruation.
  • Aggressive skincare is the main mistake: drying and scrubbing damage the barrier and increase inflammation and oil production.
  • Treatment under the 2024 AAD guideline is built on topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid; first changes take 6–8 weeks.

Why it happens in adulthood

The mechanism is the same as in adolescence: excess sebum, disrupted shedding inside the follicle, proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and inflammation. The background differs. In adult women acne is often hormonally driven — lesions along the jawline and chin, flaring before menstruation. Stress, certain medications and comedogenic cosmetics contribute, and in Dubai so does the constant combination of heat, sweat, sunscreen and air-conditioned air.

The main mistake is aggressive skincare

Instinct says to dry it out and scrub. The result is the opposite: a damaged barrier responds with irritation, flaking and more inflammation, and the skin compensates by producing more oil. Alcohol-based toners, harsh scrubs, washing until the skin squeaks and five active products used at once is the single most common scenario seen in clinic.

What has evidence behind it

The updated American Academy of Dermatology acne guideline (2024) structures treatment by severity. The foundation is topical: retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, and for inflammatory forms combinations with topical antibiotics — but never an antibiotic alone, to avoid driving resistance. Moderate to severe disease brings in systemic treatment, and women with a hormonal pattern have additional options. Severe nodular acne and acne that is scarring are an indication for systemic isotretinoin, and that decision is better not delayed: preventing scars is far easier than treating them.

How long results take

First changes at 6–8 weeks, meaningful improvement at 3 months. A temporary flare in the first weeks of retinoid treatment is expected and not a reason to stop. No regimen works if it is swapped every fortnight.

Marks and scars

Dark marks often remain after inflammation. These are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, not scars, and they do fade, slowly. In the UAE sun protection is decisive here: without it the marks persist for months. True scars need a separate approach, and work on them begins once active inflammation is controlled.

Where to be treated

At the clinic a dermatologist consultation is AED 750 and a cosmetologist consultation AED 750. The doctor builds a regimen around your lesion type and your routine rather than a standard product set. Open daily, consultations in English and Russian.

What this is based on

FAQ

Why does acne appear after 25?

The mechanism is the same as in adolescence: excess sebum, disrupted shedding inside the follicle, Cutibacterium acnes and inflammation. In adult women acne is often hormonally driven; stress, certain medications and comedogenic cosmetics contribute, and in Dubai so does the mix of heat, sweat, sunscreen and air conditioning.

How is adult acne treated?

Under the 2024 AAD guideline the foundation is topical: retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, and for inflammatory forms combinations with topical antibiotics, never an antibiotic alone. Moderate to severe disease brings in systemic treatment; severe nodular or scarring acne is an indication for systemic isotretinoin.

How long does acne treatment take to work?

First changes at 6–8 weeks, meaningful improvement at 3 months. A temporary flare in the first weeks of retinoid treatment is expected and not a reason to stop. No regimen works if it is swapped every fortnight.

This article is for information only and does not replace a consultation. If you have symptoms, see a doctor.

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